Last week I spoke to Jeff Baker from Fancy Pants Vintage in St Kilda. Fancy Pants only opened a few months ago, but already the store has some passionate regulars. Bright, colourful and inspiring there is nothing musty about Fancy Pants Vintage.

Jeff spoke to me about his passion for vintage fashion, favourite vintage piece and hopes of bringing back sharp dressing for guys…

Tell me about your background what lead you to open Fancy Pants Vintage?

My partner Tracey has been involved with vintage for around 12 years. She also owns Frocks and Slacks on Barkley Street in St Kilda. I myself have worked in vintage as well as music retail. Both of us are really passionate about vintage as it has such a history and it tells the story of popular culture over time. With Fancy Pants Vintage I hope we can reach a broader audience. It is interesting how this end of St Kilda is completely different.

What is the philosophy behind Fancy Pants Vintage?

We wanted Fancy Pants Vintage to be an approachable place and for people to be really comfortable in the store, sort of easing people into the idea of vintage clothing. Having worked in music retail I  found a lot of people, especially guys, get quite intimidated in stores especially if it is something different like independent records or vintage. Fancy Pants Vintage is not only for the person who wears head to toe vintage, but also for people to buy one highlight piece, for example a jacket or a hat. Even if it is the only vintage piece they wear it might completely set off everything else they are wearing.

I like the idea of harking back to the 1930s -50s where people took a real pride in their appearance and wanted to look sharp and interesting, before disposable fashion was around. During that time people actually took the time to choose a piece of clothing and decide to wear it. 

Who did the fit out for your store?

We did the fitout ourselves and it is broad mix of vintage furniture pieces. We didn’t want it to be from any particular period. There is a bit of a focus on guys stuff. We have re-issued soul/funk/jazz CD’s and vinyl records and a section of seasonal vintage football wear (scarves, shorts and jumpers) - just a few little psychological things to make people feel more comfortable.

Where do you find the pieces for Fancy Pants Vintage?

We travel all over the place, overseas, interstate and in the country sourcing vintage pieces. I spend a vast majority my time not just in the store but sourcing stock. We also have relationships with wholesale vintage sellers in the US and Europe from big companies to individuals. They know us so they know the kinds of things we look for. Being a vintage seller is kind of a lifestyle and is such a significant part of my life I am always on the lookout. I could be sitting on the beach and still be thinking about it!

What is your own favourite vintage clothing piece from your wardrobe?

I am a big fan of vintage denim jackets. You can pick up some fantastic ones. There is so much history behind most vintage pieces, not only with the clothing, for example its label, fabrication and style, but also with the actual piece itself and the individual who wore it. My favourites are the big e Levis jackets, I have about twenty. One of mine I found at the Camberwell market and has a hand painted unicorn on the back, which sounds really bizarre but actually looks great!

Levis is an amazing label as its boom took place in the depression, where there was a real need for practical clothing which was not super expensive and could last a long time. As a consequence Levis and Wrangler workwear in the 19th century went through a series of evolutions. For Levis the e on the red tab is a way of determining the period of the jacket. Prior to the 1970s the wording was all in upper case, post 1970s, the E changed whereas L, V, I and S still looked the same. People don’t realise how hard it is to find a big E tag. There are very few around in Australia as tariffs existed until the early 70s to protect local industry. So prior to that it was very expensive to get imported clothing here in Australia. During this period there was a lot of Australian manufacturing, which gave Australian companies the luxury to make good quality product as opposed to now where we get a lot of imported cheaper clothing.

Fancy Pants Vintage Clothing, 1/133-135 Fitzroy Street St Kilda Vic 3182 +613 9534 5888

How bizarre was the weather today? At one point I thought the wind was going to blow the side of the house in. It really made leaving my new best friend - my new wool mini jumbuk doona - at 7am very difficult. If it is any consolation I thought about him all day…

Today I visted Hokey Curator, a Hawthorn boutique after a hot top from a very fashionable melbourne designer. I love hot tips! They are very rarely wrong and today was no exception.

Opened six months ago Hokey Curator is owned by Olivia Yeung a former Marketing and PR consultant and Arts graduate, ‘I wasn’t really cut out for the office, so Hokey Curator is a real labour of love’ she says. Situated in a beautiful old building (a former dental surgery with the old plaque still on the wall) on Glenferrie Road, Olivia’s friend Bevan, an interior designer, decided to keep the decor simple and consistent with the exterior, using recycled Tasmanian oak floorboards. With the same recycled oak he created the centre table which houses plenty of delightful goodies including Karen Walker limited edition tees with puff writing. I love puff writing, it reminds me of craft activities with my Mum when I was young, oh so eighties…don’t worry these tees are much cooler. 

Hanging from the roof are exposed giant light globes emitting a soft glow, leaving the store beautifully simple and letting the beautiful stock sell itself. As a consequence the environment is really welcoming and friendly, kind of like Olivia herself, who is friends with all her customers. ‘I had a girl call me desperate for a certain dress from Sretsis, I had to tell her I didn’t have it. I felt so bad’ she told me. I had to chuckle, she really geuinely cares. I have to admit I even pulled up a chair and spendt over an hour talking about life, shopping, Gossip Girl and Twilight with Olivia, who is the most lovely person.

‘When we moved in there was this really hideous yellow carpet, which we got rid of immeditely’ Olivia tells me ‘I really wanted the shop to be relaxed and inviting. The name curator comes from my love of collecting things from all over the world. But I ofcourse I didn’t want take myself too seriously or to be too pretentious, hence the hokey part!  It also is a line from one of my favourite bands the High Llamas.’

Hokey Curator stocks mostly Australian and NZ designers but some overseas labels as well. I love that Olivia has a story to tell about each label and gets along with all the people she stocks including Romance Was Born, Ellery, Cybele (NZ), Karen Walker, Seneca Rising (an LA label which apparently celebrities are going crazy about including Heidi Klum and Leighton Meester), Rittenhouse, Little Tailleur, Dhini, Sretsis, Society for Rational Dress (LA) , Lover and Something Else.  ‘I try to chose pieces that are beautiful and individual knowing my customers and their style. But ultimately if it is a beautiful piece of clothing I think someone else will find it beautiful too’ Olivia explains ‘also it is a bit of a gut feeling!’. Olivia also gets hot tips from a stylist friend and other people in the know.

Hokey Curator, 773 Glenferrie Road, Hawthorn 3122, 613 9819 3039

While I was strolling the streets yesterday I came across Design A Space’s new window. Just opened last week, IMOK’s (pronounced “I” “Mock”) ‘Magic is in the air‘ exhibition is at Design a Space! Combining a phenomenal talent in fashion, art and illustration IMOCK have been with Design A Space right from the beginning.

After less than 3 years Design A Space has become a Melbourne institution. Stocking new up and coming designers the space gives designers an opportunity to rent a high profile retail space to showcase their wares.

IMOK’s exhibition will be in the window and on the walls of Design a Space (Chapel street store) until 18 July 2009. Also launched is IMOK’s lettering. Having created a font that they call their own you can now get personal words in IMOK’s customised lettering. Quirky, cute and colourful - what more will they think of? An IMOK monthly style winner actually. Send your photo in wearing IMOK and get it posted on their site and get a free t-shirt.

Oh, and apparently IMOK’s great designs have been seen on Home and Away starlets too. 

Design A Space

142 Chapel Street, Windsor 3181 +613 9510 0144

20 Mancester Lane, Melbourne 3000 +9663 8991

Today I was strolling through the city and got distracted by the most gorgeous pair of Vivienne Westwood + Melissa, jelly shoes at Obus. Oh so lovely!  Melissa is the label and creator of the original jelly shoe first made in 1979 in Brazil. Made from PVC they are infused with a sweet scented bubble gum flavour. The recent collaboration with Vivienne Westwood has only been at Obus for 2 weeks and is flying out of the store. While I was there I also checked out Obus’ winter range.

Obus is a label so quintessentially Melbourne it is not surprising that it is manufactured right here in Melbourne. Designed by Kylie Zerbst the label has grown steadily and in an understated fashion over the years. Always unique the design team use original prints and shapes. Winter is always a very strong collection for Obus with beautiful coats, textured knitwear and left of centre work dresses. This winter is no exception with Obus looking particularly autumnal with peacock themes in the store and colours such as bluebird, caramels, greens and yellows. With a long running theme of travel, Kylie cites her biggest influence as the modern travelling woman, adventurous and beautiful.

I have to admit this is the first time I have been into the Flinders Lane store and I was pleasantly surprised - a series of light boxes house little goodies such as scarves, tights and bags. The counter features accessories from House of Baulch by Kathryn Baulch a former Mimco designer - think statement jewellery at its best. I love the long clothing rack which runs the entire store length from which Obus’ beautiful quality lovingly designed items hang.

Obus

4/289 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, VIC, 3000,  +613 9662 1025

226 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, VIC, 3068, +613 9416 0012

It seems wonderfully indulgent when during all the talk of doom and gloom and the GFC (whenever someone says GFC I have to mentally process the information and explain to myself they must mean ‘global financial crisis’ - somehow this acronym just does not come naturally to me), Scanlan and Theodore have extended their Chapel Street shop front to encompass two stores.

As it just opened on Saturday, I had to pop in.

Luxurious, spacious and indulgent, the store is designed by Meacham Nockles McQualter who also did their beautiful High Street Armadale store. The aesthetic is the same, airy, light and luxurious but laid-back, perfect for the Australian customer. I love the camel leather lounging sofas and huge changing area - perfect for spending an afternoon playing with beautiful clothes and accessories.

However when I say, and accessories, I suppose I really should give them the credit they require and not just some little add on to a sentence.  The new store now has an accessories wall with exquisite one off handbags from Jamin Peuch and Givenchy and amazing necklaces from Ligia Dias and Florian just to name a few. Little glass cabinets scattered throughout the shop display other jewels like ancient recently discovered artifacts. As statement jewellery is the hot tip for the season I feel like I really must indulge.

Scanlan and Theodore, 566 Chapel street, South Yarra, Victoria, Australia, 3141,  61 3 9824 1800

Remember the time when the residential milk bar around the corner was a treasure trove of exciting treats? Think mini sherbet straws 2 for 5 cents, wizz fizz and willy wonka nerds. Sedonia in Seddon is exactly the same - but for grown ups. I got a hot tip from Rachel, a local from the area, about this Seddon delight. I wish I had a local store with beautiful treats like this.

First opened nine months ago, Sedonia sits tucked away from the main street with an outlook of beautiful terrace houses. Stocked with women and children’s clothing, jewellery, accessories, homewares, toys and stationary, it is not surprising that owners Nicola and Inge have a background in fine arts. Their excellent eye is apparent in every item in the store, from the painted ceramic Australian scenes by designer Jo Luping to jewellery pieces by Pseudo Republik ,every item is a piece of art with an exquisite aesthetic. ‘The store’s concept is based around beautifully designed items and craft’ Nicole told me, ‘plus Inge and I love to shop’ she added.

The sun filled shop, has mostly Australian designed and locally made stock. The women’s clothing includes Spencer Lacy, Gorman, beautiful basics from Skin and Threads, Indigo and Gloweave’s vintage range. I fell in love with the little wooden cabinets filled with jewellery from Gretchen House, Victoria Mason and Elk Accessories to name a few.

The store also stocks Nicola and Inge’s own range, Friday. They named their range, Friday, after the day of the week when they would originally make their own resin jewellery.

If only every local corner store was like Sedonia.

Sedonia, 441, Gamon street, Seddon +613 9689 9368

Does it say something about my reading material when the first thing that comes to my mind when I hear the word Danish is Princess Mary, Prince Frederik, possible marital problems and difficult mother in laws? Which in turn springs to mind a heated debate with my mother about whether Mary followed Frederik to Denmark subsequent to their meeting in Sydney (on second thoughts I think my mum might know more about Mary and Frederik’s courtship than my own….)

Luckily the only thing Princess Mary and Chapel Street boutique, Dansk (which means Danish), have in common are their origins. Opened just over month ago by Jannick Zester, Dansk is a nod to Jannick’s Scandinavian roots. In the fashion industry for almost ten years Jannick imported Danish label Minimum for three years to Australia. As a consequence he knows the Melbourne fashion consumer. Stocked with fashioniable, beautiful and quality Scandinavian clothing and accessories including D.Co Copenhagen boots, Dansk is certain to be popular amongst the Melbourne set.

A lot of love and care has been taken with the store, having a Nordic, highlands and eco friendly influence.  Recycled wooden crates act as store fixtures as well as the boots which include recycled rubber soles. Covering the walls are Scandanivian cities and towns such as Eland, Stockholm and Malmo, including Janick’s small home town, Blovstrod and the beautiful Danish sales assistant’s home town as well, Alborg. The fair isle knits, characteristic of the region and riding boots look like they belong, in the wooden panelling,  painted green trees and retro style chairs.

For men there are wonderfully funky skinny ties, duffle coats and vests. For women cuddly knits, including wool blend sweater dresses and beautifully cut winter jackets. Simple lines, classic design, and beautiful quality for a reasonable price.

I am taking my man here this weekend - his look definitely needs a good clean up you read it here first.

I might get a sweater dress too while I am at it.

Dansk, 113 Chapel Street, Windsor +613 9533 9134

When I heard that Little Salon had got their new winter jackets in I had to pop in. As usual I got distracted and probably overstayed my welcome. Though it would probably be hard to - the gorgeous sales assistant was so lovely. I got a bit carried away, taking photos of the beautiful little soaps and intricate wall hangings.

Little Salon, 71 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy (www.littlesalon.com.au), is a beautiful little shop owned by Geneine Honey. Geneine Honey is also the designer of Melbourne based fashion label Love. The irresistible boutique stocks what one might describe as left of centre, clothing, accessories and homewares from Australian designers including Love of course.

Love is probably most famously known for its jewellery inspired by childhood images and animals. Love’s newest range includes hand painted wooden figurines including sausage dogs, boys in cars and little russian doll necklaces. This theme continues in homewares which include mobile birdcages, bikes and little girl wall hangings - so cute ! However what I really fell in love with was the Mary Poppins-like necklace, sailing above the rooftops (see below). And when I say ‘love‘ I don’t mean the label I mean deep in my heart :).

Love’s new winter jackets are 100% wool with special Love details, like ditsy patterned lined hoods and little red buttons. Also in store was the Ok-Ok label (ok-ok.com.au), Leonard St., Sunday morning and Third Drawer Down, just to name a few. It seems Gertrude Street really is the new ‘it’ street in Melbourne. Even the Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com) who was in town last week, had an informal casting call for the new campaign he was shooting at the newly opened Cutler & Co,  55-57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy. Apparently most of Melbourne was there staring and willing him to take their photograph.

Little Salon
71 Gertrude St, Fizroy 3065 613 9419 7123
Shop 1, 353 Little Collins St, Melbourne, 3000 613 9670 6996

Long before Gwen Stefani, the Harajuki girls and Love. Angel. Music. Baby. was Hudson.  Owned by Nikki, a former travel writer, Hudson on Carlisle Street is something special and a little bit more. A slice of Toyko in East St Kilda, Nikki travels 7 times a year searching for weird and wonderful clothes and items from Toyko, Hong Kong, America and Sweden, ’I could write a travel book on Japan’ she tells me.

I am ashamed to admit I have never been to this shop before - which opened on Carlisle street ten years ago - I got a tip off from a devoted Melbourne fashionista who has shopped here regularly since it first opened.  Stocking men, women and kid’s clothing, knick knacks, toys and local art it is likely Hudson will melt the heart of even the tightest penny pinching individual. It is my firm belief the secret to Hudson’s success can be attributed to Nikki’s experience as a former Lonely Planet writer. Ultimately when she travels she knows exactly where to go to find the most covertable items for Melbourne shoppers.

‘Someone said to me that they weren’t sure whether the shop was kid’s store or not’  Nikki confided me ‘ I don’t think they meant it as a compliment, but I take it as one. I don’t believe in being defined by what people think a typical shop should be or look like. I want people to have fun here and to bring weird and wonderful ideas from overseas and Australia and display it in the store.’

The window not only houses clothing from the store and toys, but an ever changing display of local craft and art. Nikki supports local community artwork and craft selling their work without commission ensuring there is always something new and interesting to be found at Hudson.

Hudson, 229 Carlisle Street, East St Kilda.613 9525 8066

Today I rolled down the hill into LADY after almost eating myself into oblivion at Yu.U (137 Flinders Lane), where I had a magnificent lunch and drank plum wine…what a perfect afternoon. The lovely Petrova Hammond told me I had timed myself perfectly - her label LADY’s A/W 2009 collection had just come into store (www.ladylovesme.com).

Petrova is the owner of LADY boutique and designer of the label LADY. Of Project Runway fame, Petrova was runner up of the Foxtel program hosted by Kirsty Hinze. An extremely warm and welcoming individual she makes everyone want to be her best friend - me included - when I walked into the shop she was posing for photographs with groups of girls.  With a backing soundtrack custom made for her by a friend (a Triple R producer) LADY boutique is all about individuality. I took the opportunity to take some photos of her beautiful store.

The LADY A/W 2009 collection is exactly like Petrova, fun, quirky and all about dressing up. With dark undertones and bright accent colours with satins and silks of red, gold, silver and purple there is definitely something ‘Alice in Wonderland’ about the range. Later I find out the range is inspired by the classic fairy tale with themes of good and evil. Manufactured in Melbourne, the range is a minimal run, ensuring that you are the only one in the party wearing that special piece. I loved the one shouldered red showstopping party frock.

Also available at LADY boutique are other amazing all Australian designers (with the exception of NZ - Karen Walker - but I have decided to accept her as one of our own - kind of like Russell Crowe but much more beautiful), including Tristan Blair, Sretsis and I Heard They Eat Cigarettes.

LADY Boutique Shop 3, 237 Flinders Lane Melbourne 3000, 613 9650 6285 (down Scott Alley)